Monday, 25 June 2012

A dolmades a day keeps the doctor away.


Endless summer

Sticking with my idea of trying to provide some ‘informative’ blogs rather than only having simple bantering (which I intend to continue don’t you worry) why not shed a little light on Turkey. It is fair to say there will be some gross generalisation here and let it be known if I mention “in the whole of Turkey”, I only mean the few places I have been. In short…pinch of salt needed folks.

Me and Ali Baba
So I was in Turkey this time last year in fact, we spent a week in Istanbul, cruised over to Bodrum and its possible even Marmaras (it could have been my laundry day). I enjoyed it last year, found the Bizarre far from it and besides from a million Pashmina and Turkish carpet stores it wasn’t exactly a ‘bargain’, but fun for a visit. The big domey thing (I believe its called the Hagia Sofia, did I ever mention I wasn’t good with the important stuff), was larger than life for a mere 3 minutes then I was out the door posing with all the buskers, most importantly – Ali baba. 

Bodrum was a lot like any town I guess; fun, vibe-y, a main street riddled with bars, clubs and restaurants, stray cats and mean looking dogs. I did enjoy it there, got some serious mid night shopping done here – yip the shops are open till mid night which makes for some tipsy shopping which I found could get expensive. Came home with a few gorgeous dresses that only lasted 3 rounds with ye ol tumble dryer so perhaps its closer to Thailand quality of clothes than say France.



Now I’m in a small little town of only 7200 people and probably the equivalent of cats and dogs, a quaint little place called Kas. Now don’t get me wrong when I say this but I feel it could be a good retirement spot, how do I know this you ask? Well we managed to make some friends around here, some lovely Belgiums who are all over 65, and these guys can kick it! They are up most nights till 3 am then head over for a lazy soup at the soup kitchen – yes…soup kitchen. This is no lie (not even a generalisation, we have spent a few nights with them and have crawled home). They act more like I was back in the under aged clubbing days of climbing in boots packing the car to the roof (check), speeding up for every hump so someone would hit their head on the roof (check), hand brake turns on the gravel parking lot (check) and then only making it to our beds at 5am.  I have massive respect for these ‘mature rebels’, I just giggle that we weren’t able to make friends our own age but rather 3 times our age – priceless. 
Fireworks in the town centre on most nights


A dolmades a day keeps the doctor away
The town itself is much better at night, full of character; unlike during daytime work hours where tumbleweeds roll through the town and its heat will literally melt your soul. It isn’t however cheap, which is very surprising to me as I figured it to be a lot like the Thailand of Europe, but we find ourselves paying €40 for a shitty bottle of wine which no amount of ice could have helped – and for me to pay more than €1.59 – breaks my heart. 

Unfortunately for Turkey (salt), the service is a shocker, in short … there is none? And when you find someone good, say Ali my taxi driver who I used for 4 days religiously and probably putting his kids through school due to our patronage (salt sprinkling perhaps)  after a few days charged me 5 times the normal -already elevated price due to being dropped off at a yacht. When I refused he just asked how much then, the best answer there was nothing you slimy sleaze ball (salt please). This wasn’t just a once off occurrence, it was on all levels, from the shops in town – a carpet guy quoting me €400 on day one then a week later it some how went up to €1400. Now that’s some inflation.

Kalkan town


Even the technical services people here at the marina sent over the king of all sleaze balls to fix a blocked loo (it was day two onboard we had no idea whose or how old the shit stuck in there was – it was definitely an outsourced requirement). This guy spent the entire day staring at my bum while scratching his crotch – great image huh? Needless to say he didn’t even fix our plumbing problem but kept asking if he could leave?
Friday market goodies

Here they seem to see tourists and try draw them in with helpful smiles and cheap prices to ensure you return (you think) but really they don’t care how much they charge you the next time, it’s a number plucked from the sky. I think to be honest…the heat must get to them.



If your sensing I’m not pleased with Turkeys people – its true and I find people make or break a place. It is beautiful all around turkey, no lie there but when your fighting every inch of everything (maybe a bit more salt) it becomes exhausting.


Mezze...my favourite

 The food however, I have enjoyed but were unlucky at all the beach or seaside restaurants and had terrible meals that a little cat who shared my shade on the beach even refused to touch. I suggest you eat at all the local restaurants in town, cheap and fabulous – especially the dolmades, I have eaten a minimum of 6 a day, they are like a little rolled up slice of paradise. Also give the cheese rolls a go, it’s a fatty yet unbelievably delicious starter.

The friday market is just too much fun

 The pictures of the turquoise waters couldn’t be more correct if they tried, gorgeous little hidden rocky inlets, stacks of cushions to lounge on just a few inches above the water. My only thought was (with my new mature friends and all) there aren’t many beaches, but rather those rocky inlets where you climb down ladders into the water or jump off platforms. Now say if you have a new hip you might struggle with the meter drop in…right?


 I definitely think you must visit Turkey; I have loved being here in Kas with its never ending sunsets, blisteringly hot days and dolmades to make you drool. Hopefully before we take our mini loaf back over to France we get to see a bit more of the coastline on our little zippy scooter (zippy…Lots of salt needed on that one).






Back to some silver polishing mixed with jumping off the fly bridge for me…stay smiling, no matter the situation to quote my dad, “its just damn fab, damn fab”



xxx   




Blue-er than blue

A few of our new friends!



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