A dolmades a day keeps the doctor away.

Endless summer

Sticking with my idea of trying to provide some ‘informative’ blogs rather than only having simple bantering (which I intend to continue don’t you worry) why not shed a little light on Turkey. It is fair to say there will be some gross generalisation here and let it be known if I mention “in the whole of Turkey”, I only mean the few places I have been. In short…pinch of salt needed folks.

Me and Ali Baba

So I was in Turkey this time last year in fact, we spent a week in Istanbul, cruised over to Bodrum and its possible even Marmaras (it could have been my laundry day). I enjoyed it last year, found the Bizarre far from it and besides from a million Pashmina and Turkish carpet stores it wasn’t exactly a ‘bargain’, but fun for a visit. The big domey thing (I believe its called the Hagia Sofia, did I ever mention I wasn’t good with the important stuff), was larger than life for a mere 3 minutes then I was out the door posing with all the buskers, most importantly – Ali baba. 

Bodrum was a lot like any town I guess; fun, vibe-y, a main street riddled with bars, clubs and restaurants, stray cats and mean looking dogs. I did enjoy it there, got some serious mid night shopping done here – yip the shops are open till mid night which makes for some tipsy shopping which I found could get expensive. Came home with a few gorgeous dresses that only lasted 3 rounds with ye ol tumble dryer so perhaps its closer to Thailand quality of clothes than say France.

Now I’m in a small little town of only 7200 people and probably the equivalent of cats and dogs, a quaint little place called Kas. Now don’t get me wrong when I say this but I feel it could be a good retirement spot, how do I know this you ask? Well we managed to make some friends around here, some lovely Belgiums who are all over 65, and these guys can kick it! They are up most nights till 3 am then head over for a lazy soup at the soup kitchen – yes…soup kitchen. This is no lie (not even a generalisation, we have spent a few nights with them and have crawled home). They act more like I was back in the under aged clubbing days of climbing in boots packing the car to the roof (check), speeding up for every hump so someone would hit their head on the roof (check), hand brake turns on the gravel parking lot (check) and then only making it to our beds at 5am.  I have massive respect for these ‘mature rebels’, I just giggle that we weren’t able to make friends our own age but rather 3 times our age – priceless. 

Fireworks in the town centre on most nights

A dolmades a day keeps the doctor away

The town itself is much better at night, full of character; unlike during daytime work hours where tumbleweeds roll through the town and its heat will literally melt your soul. It isn’t however cheap, which is very surprising to me as I figured it to be a lot like the Thailand of Europe, but we find ourselves paying €40 for a shitty bottle of wine which no amount of ice could have helped – and for me to pay more than €1.59 – breaks my heart. 

Unfortunately for Turkey (salt), the service is a shocker, in short … there is none? And when you find someone good, say Ali my taxi driver who I used for 4 days religiously and probably putting his kids through school due to our patronage (salt sprinkling perhaps)  after a few days charged me 5 times the normal -already elevated price due to being dropped off at a yacht. When I refused he just asked how much then, the best answer there was nothing you slimy sleaze ball (salt please). This wasn’t just a once off occurrence, it was on all levels, from the shops in town – a carpet guy quoting me €400 on day one then a week later it some how went up to €1400. Now that’s some inflation.

Kalkan town

Even the technical services people here at the marina sent over the king of all sleaze balls to fix a blocked loo (it was day two onboard we had no idea whose or how old the shit stuck in there was – it was definitely an outsourced requirement). This guy spent the entire day staring at my bum while scratching his crotch – great image huh? Needless to say he didn’t even fix our plumbing problem but kept asking if he could leave?

Friday market goodies

Here they seem to see tourists and try draw them in with helpful smiles and cheap prices to ensure you return (you think) but really they don’t care how much they charge you the next time, it’s a number plucked from the sky. I think to be honest…the heat must get to them.

If your sensing I’m not pleased with Turkeys people – its true and I find people make or break a place. It is beautiful all around turkey, no lie there but when your fighting every inch of everything (maybe a bit more salt) it becomes exhausting.

Mezze...my favourite

 The food however, I have enjoyed but were unlucky at all the beach or seaside restaurants and had terrible meals that a little cat who shared my shade on the beach even refused to touch. I suggest you eat at all the local restaurants in town, cheap and fabulous – especially the dolmades, I have eaten a minimum of 6 a day, they are like a little rolled up slice of paradise. Also give the cheese rolls a go, it’s a fatty yet unbelievably delicious starter.

The friday market is just too much fun

 The pictures of the turquoise waters couldn’t be more correct if they tried, gorgeous little hidden rocky inlets, stacks of cushions to lounge on just a few inches above the water. My only thought was (with my new mature friends and all) there aren’t many beaches, but rather those rocky inlets where you climb down ladders into the water or jump off platforms. Now say if you have a new hip you might struggle with the meter drop in…right?

 I definitely think you must visit Turkey; I have loved being here in Kas with its never ending sunsets, blisteringly hot days and dolmades to make you drool. Hopefully before we take our mini loaf back over to France we get to see a bit more of the coastline on our little zippy scooter (zippy…Lots of salt needed on that one).

Back to some silver polishing mixed with jumping off the fly bridge for me…stay smiling, no matter the situation to quote my dad, “its just damn fab, damn fab”

xxx   

Blue-er than blue

A few of our new friends!

Turkey? Yeah ... why not!

Been a bit slack on the blogging, but would you believe it I have re-joined the working world. I wouldn't say 'contributing to society' but work ... sure. Week one has been more like a roller coaster out of control than anything els. Antibes to Nice, Nice to Zurich for dinner and then off to Antalya in Turkey. It was here where I realised that airport security personnel really need to up their game. I know the green mamba (South African passport for the non Saffa's reading this) is an issue all to itself but I cant help it if the customs and police officers in Turkey didn't know South Africa was a country????? SERIOUSLY?!?!?!?!

I spent one hour in the police station inside the airport feeling like a criminal and worried i'd be cuffed and given as a gift to the highest bidding Turk, or worse...deported! They kept asking where in Southern Africa was I from and was Johannesburg in Germany? And these people are running the show...God help us.

Our office.
But hey, I got through in the end and spent the next 3 hours in a taxi on our way to Kas - which is a great little town that is so vibey, cute and full of character. It is here where we find our new home - The Mini Loaf. To elaborate, its our new boat we are running and its such a little cutey - but looks like a KFC mini loaf! 

A lazy bit of Ben & Jerry's after work!

So we're running off our feet getting things in order for the season (late starters but we'll be there, steaming in on the mini loaf). Enjoying the food here and even trying my own skills at being a 'lil cook' - get the fire blanket ready!!

Stuffed Aubergine - YUMMY

I will be sure to give you a few more details on Kas soon as it is a gorgeous untouched piece of heaven.

Till next time - xxx Stu - rejoining the Stew-ing world.

We have been OD-ing on dalmates

View of the port - with the mini loaf at the back.

Our porch

It’s more than just a beret.

I know there is a lot more to France than just glorious beach’s and insanely delicious rose (for even you thrifty back packers out there) but for me – the some-what uncultured girl who thrives on a good bar vibe with cheap rose and relies on the local people in the corner café to judge a place rather than a brochure or tour guide with a ping pong bat - this is my guide to France - the grand Cote D’Azur. I therefore suggest for the cultured readers out there (go me for attracted you lot) to purchase a Lonely Planet or something similar with detailed information on the boring stuff.

To veer off the beach path for a brief moment, I would suggest a visit to the Eze Village in Eze–Sur Mer (surprise surprise). I believe the walk up has quite the view but for me, that takes away precious relaxing and drinking time and I watched the walkers arrive all sweaty and panting which I can assure you is not a good look in photo’s. So we caught the bus up (beware to all fellow motion sickness people its quite the ride), and the town is so quaint and different up there it really is worth the day trip. I couldn’t tell you much more about it but we wondered around the winding cobbled roads where we found the view to murder all other views and thought ‘hey, who cares if we spend our weekly budget on one cocktail?’ at the Chevre D’Or. It is worth its exorbitant price (DO NOT have a non alcoholic drink as it is almost the same price – priorities, priorities, priorities!) There is also a Michellin Star restaurant called Restaurant Eze which also sports a fabulous view and well dressed waiters - you know its pricey when the waiter wears Armani.

I didn’t bother visiting the ‘Cactus Garden’ because lets be honest, is that really in your list of things to do before you die? If it is well your in luck and for only a five-a.  There is also a famous Fragonard where you get to learn all about perfume and why we spend lots of money in duty free - try tell me you don’t buy your perfume in “duty free”?

If these gorgeous little towns are your thing, do try St Paul De Vence, it tops the ‘cute-o-meter’ for small towns. Very artisty if that’s even a word - perhaps not but it fits the description-and a photographers dream. Every corner, every art gallery (cultured for me I know) and every shop is nestled in amongst a picturesque little walk way or garden. Its only a half day trip and I would suggest going out of season, no need for sunshine here, its beauty needs no air brushing, and besides the bus loads of tourists piling out into this tiny town gets a bit crowded so do yourself a favour and save it for the winter even.

Speaking of winter in the South of France – now don’t get all grey on me, it is actually a fabulous winter destination. I have spent 2 winters here and loved every one. Its cold enough yes but it is also gorgeous. Take away the hoards of tourists and the packed beaches and you have become a local. It’s a great getaway and the best part about it for me is the mountains. It is only an hour away from kilometers of snow – a snowboarder’s paradise. Isola 2000 is the closest to the coast but only a half hour further are two other ski fields. I know it sounds bizarre going skiing to the South of France but hey, when you’re given lemons – cut em up and smash a tequila or two. We spent every possible weekend up there and even travelled a bit further to the most spectacular Courchevel, which is a snowy paradise if I have ever seen. So don’t think the gorgeous Cote D’Azur it simply a summer-only holiday, it isn’t.

 

I have mentioned a few beaches in my blog, a few fab restaurants and even a winter past time spot so I feel to top it all off should be a little bit of the best entertainment (I believe) the Riviera has to offer. For those reading this will smile at reading their name and remember the many hang over’s that followed a night after watching these guys. The Blah Blah’s, a cover band that puts all the original artists they cover to shame – in my opinion. The lead singer Al is a cracker of a front man who keeps you laughing, singing and dancing till the wee hours of the morning, every morning. So keep an eye out at all the pubs, restaurants and ‘what’s-on’ guides in case you should be so lucky to see these guys perform.

I guess I could go on forever about the fabulous-ness of France but for now I will stop there in case I loose all my ‘short attention span’ readers out there – I know I know, more pictures.

As I fly over France eating a mini sandwich on a mini plate and a small coke on my way to Zurich, I hope you enjoy France as much as I have. Here’s to the next little adventure.

Au revoir xx

The Gems of the Cote D’Azur - Part 1

After writing about how wonderfully magical Antibes is, I realised my adventures here  in France could be of some use to … well I guess someone out there. So why not?

As wonderful as Antibes is there are other spots worth the call up on here – not to worry I wont sugar coat every place ill give you the whole truth and nothing but the truth of my adventures, ill be as true to ‘my style’ as always. 

Even though I have spent a good majority of my time in Antibes, my pevious ‘home’ was a gorgeous super yacht in Monaco. At first I was over the moon at the concept of actually living in the home of the tax haven seeking millionaires, race car enthusiasts and silver-spoon-in-mouth LSM group. I figured I had landed the dream destination – I was however mistaken. Monaco is a fabulous place to visit, stroll around the casino all dolled up, wonder the port looking at the boats even the Prince cant afford, visit the unique botanical gardens while bypassing the castle of kings and queens, walk under the famous tunnel and drive round the most famous Grand Prix track around. Ah yes the tourists guide to Monaco, what the don’t mention in the brochures and guide books is the astronomical costs of even a coke or a crepe, the 10 cruise ships a day to the tiny town/principality/whatever. They don’t tell you that its mostly filled with tourists or drivers-by who believe they are in poll position - it lacks the charm and character that the rest of France still oozes.

My advise if you must stop off for a visit, walk around to the beaches which are quite nice and not too crowded as everyone visiting is walking around taking photo's all day. Go to the aquarium if you wish to be touristy, have a drink at the Brasserie along the port at happy hour or els your bank account will dry up in two hours, and If you wish to stand out car-wise in Monaco…drive a Twingo.

On my days off, without question, was always to head over one train stop away to Cap D’Ail. I’m in two minds divulging this information on the internet as this beach is the most picturesque, almost hidden, gorgeous beach that is untouched by the hoards of tour groups, it is untainted by the guide book and map holders, this beach is Frances own slice of paradise and I don’t want to see the generic Canon carrying, backpack wearing tourists there the next time I go to "escape". I wont tell you how to get there as it is an adventure in itself and if you find or have been you'll know exactly why it needs to directions - it needs to be discovered. 

En route to Plage Mala

It is an adventure.

BUT well worth it!

 Plage Mala is by far my favourite beach in all of France. It is quiet yet bustling with character and the humming of Café Del Mar in the back round. The two restaurants are impossible to differentiate between which is better, they are both FABULOUS and I recommend them both. I also recommend having a magnum of rose all day, rose with ice has never tasted this good - no need to wait till mid day.

I'll be sure to fill you in on other little Gems around the coast in my next instalment, for now feel free to tell me where you have been so I can go visit and test there wine for myself :) 

Till then - i'll have another magnum of rose please.

xx